Blink as you emerge from the cliffs at the top of one of Bamiyan's enormous Buddha niches. Stop pedalling for a moment and drift in your swan-shaped pedalo on the waters of Band-e Amir. Utter a great smoking sigh of contentment as you puff on a sheesha at Mirwais Shandaiz.
- Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler reflects on travel to Afghanistan over the decades.
- Specialist contributors write on journalism, women, and trekking in the Wakhan and the Afghan Pamir.
- Chapters on working and safety in Afghanistan, with advice from resident expats.